Sarajevo update

As you can see, I've added some pics on this site in addition to updating the regular photo site. Hopefully this makes all you grumblers happy. No more grumbling just cause your own life is boring, D.
I'm currently sitting in my hostel in Belgrade, Serbia. I got here this afternoon after a brutally long day that involved 2 hours sleep, a rush to the bus station for a 6am bus, an 8 hour bus ride, during which we came thisclose to hitting an oncoming vehicle (seriously....not what you want to happen during the first hour of 8), and then a couple of long walks in the heat with my pack on (but hey, I gave myself a walking tour of the city!). So yeh, all this, and I'm only staying till tomorrow night, at which point I'm catching a night train to Sofia, in Bulgaria.
So, Sarajevo was amazing. I was a little unprepared, I think, after coming to Bosnia from the beautiful Croatian coast. I got on the bus in Dubrovnik in shorts and a tank top because it was so warm there, but once I got off in Bosnia, things were a little different....First, the bus trip between DB and Mostar, Bosnia is beautiful. You begin by going up the coast of Croatia, and then once you head inland, it's all these crazy beautiful green rocky mountains. Coming into Mostar was super interesting, but a little shocking, seeing how much destruction is left over from the war over a decade ago.
Bombed out shells of houses are a common sight in the area unfortunately, as are the bulletholes in the pavement and buildings (obviously). I got into Sarajevo at about 9pm and I'm not going to lie, it was a bit intimidating. It was so different from what I had gotten used to in the previous weeks, and it was one of the first times I was getting into a city at night. I had no map that actually showed the street my hostel was supposed to be on, so I ended up catching my first taxi. I was ripped off a bit, being told one price and having to pay another, but it was a couple dollars, so I wasn't terribly worried.
Anyway, the Haris hostel is at the top of this massively steep hill (and this is not just me complaining, you'll see the pictures soon), which is a pain (literally...in my poor old knees), but it afforded us a killer view over the city. From any of you that remember the madness that went on in Sarajevo from 1992-1995, the city is in a valley, completely surrounded by hills (which the Serbs used to their advantage). One of the first things you notice in the area around the hostel is the absolutely huge (and plentiful) graveyards scattered over the hills. It really is something to see....
But back to the hostel. I've already raved about it, so no more, but it really was a great time. The first night there, we hung out at the hostel with Haris and drank rakia (homemade moonshine, basically....actually a homemade plum brandy). The next day, Haris took us on this amazing tour, taking us to the Tunnel of Hope, 'Sniper Alley' and the Holiday Inn where all the journalists stayed during the siege, the Olympic Museum, a typical Bosnian home from the Ottoman Empire, and then for some super yummy food and coffee. Listening to him speak about the city was great, because, having lived through both good times and bad in the city, he gives a really interesting perspective on things. And makes you realise just how much you take for granted in your own life. After that, there was a lot of wandering around the city, watching people playing chess in the parks, and taking a look at all the mosques (from outside, of course....some made you put on a veil if you wanted to enter even the courtyard). I was staying just outside the Turkish (old) area of the city, so it was really fun to hang out in all the turkish coffee shops and wander through the crazy narrow streets. One night, a bunch of us all went out and found some great live music in a pub, too. It was sort of a mix of traditional Bosnian music and contemporary party/bar music. It was kinda cool.
Oh yeah, and it was my first time being in a muslim city....the call to prayer that is played from all of the mosques is really quite cool to hear. Apparently each mosque tries to 'outdo' the other ones, so you hear this chanting/music-like voice from so many mosques all at once (from a certain point on the hill, I counted 30 spires around the city without even trying too hard)...
Anyway, it's 1.30 am and I've been up for a looooong time. I'll try to keep up with the pictures better, but access is not always easy.